The idea of Isla Coiba is like something created in fiction. A 500 square kilometer island surrounded by one of the largest coral reefs on the Pacific coast of the Americas with an ecosystem comparable to the Galapagos.  Combine the ecological wonder with the fact the island was an operational no-cell penal colony until 1994 and you have an adventurer’s dream.

Isla Coiba is Panama’s rawer version of San Francisco’s Alcatraz.  A prison set on an island guarded by heavy currents and shark-infested waters making escape nearly impossible.  Where Alcatraz also has hypothermic waters added to the mix, Isla Coiba has thick, dense jungle interrupted only by brackish rivers and lagoons inhabited by jumbo-sized crocodiles.  Isla Coiba really starts to get spicy when you add in the factor prisoners were set loose between four isolated prison camps with the prison guards locking themselves into cells at night for their own protection.

In 1994, Panama created Coiba National Park, comprising of 38 islands and their surrounding waters.  The prison on Isla Coiba officially closed and its tenants were sent to other prisons with only a handful of “well-behaved” prisoners staying to fulfill their sentences.  In 2005, UNESCO name Coiba National Park a World Heritage Site.  Today, ANAM manages the island and has created a place for visitors to stay in one of the 4 prison camps.  Lodgings are rustic with electricity and water only running from 6pm-2am.  There is a dining hall with a kitchen that is used to prepare meals and the edge of camp is bordered by a beautiful lagoon inhabited by a 12-foot crocodile affectionately named Tito.

Because Isla Coiba was a penal colony, access to the island and the surrounding waters was very restricted.  80% of the islands’ natural resources have survived untouched and flourished through limited human contact.  Consequently, the ocean in Coiba National Park is literally a playground of friendly tropical fish, dolphins, sharks, whales, turtles and rays.  In the two full days I spent snorkeling in Coiba, I saw countless fish, turtles and some good-sized reef sharks.  The coral is alive and colorful and the water is as clear as the Caribbean.  The scuba diving in Coiba is supposed to be one of the best in the world, with one of the main attractions being shark encounters – large shark encounters.  Hammerheads and Tiger Sharks are not uncommon sightings but the real star is the presence of the massive whale shark.  Weighing in around 21 tons and measuring on average at 35 feet, swimming with one of these ginormous fish is a chance of a lifetime, and a possibility in Coiba National Park.

Getting to Coiba is not an easy task and will put a dent in your wallet.  It is almost necessary to go through a tour of some sort, and I would honestly recommend it.  As lovely as the beach is at the ANAM camp, the surrounding islands are breathtaking and it’s great to have a knowledgeable person taking you to the best snorkeling spots.  The tours will also take care of all food and preparation, which is a huge bonus, as you need to bring everything with you.  Ancon Expeditions is a popular tour organizer and be prepared to go with a group around 8.  I had a group of friends come and visit making my party 8 people.  We ended up hiring Gilberto, the head of the outdoor adventure group, the Excursionistas here in Panama.  Gilberto is fluent in English and was an awesome guide.  We spent our days snorkeling and playing on deserted islands.  We also went to another prison camp that has been set-up to show tourists what life was like in the prison.  At the time we were there (April 2009), there were four prisoners left on the island.  One, whom was wielding a machete and cutting open coconuts for us, had only 12 days left of his 20-year sentence.  The prison camp was fascinating and just another reason to go through a tour of some kind.  Gilberto is a hard man to get a hold of and is often busy guiding other adventures, but is never the less a great option.

Most boats leave for Coiba from Santa Catalina.  There are a few companies in Santa Catalina that offer day snorkeling and diving trips to Isla Coiba, which is a great alternative if you do not have the time to stay on the island or just don’t feel like roughing it.  However you end up experiencing Coiba National Park is irrelevant.  The important thing is experiencing it.  Coiba is one hell of an adventure and something that is truly unique to Panama.

Contact Information:

Club de Excursionistas del Istmo:

Phone Number: 66370467, Contact – Gilberto

http://www.ceipanama.com/

Ancon expeditions of Panama

http://www.anconexpeditions.com/

Santa Catalina Boat Tours:

http://www.santacatalinaboattours.com/boattrips/islacoiba.html

Scuba Coiba:

www.scubacoiba.com

ANAM:

http://www.anam.gob.pa/joomla/

Phone: 998-0615

National Park Office Phone: 998-4271

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Filed under: Country Guide, Culture on October 26th, 2009