The famous surf break of Pavonnes turned out to be quite satisfactory. On good days the waves (or I should say “wave” singular) can break 1.2 kilometers making it easier to walk back line-up rather than paddle. Well it wasn´t quite a 1.2 kilometer day, but it was still long enough to put a smile on my face. Especially considering the gnarly, board-breaking, close-out surf that was Playa Hermosa last week. I was really surprised at how gentle the break is. The locals probably wouldn’t appreciate this bit of advice, but it is the perfect wave to learn on - its gentle and the rides last a long time so a beginner can get the balance and feel of the wave without it closing on him.

It was so gentle that I was nostalgic for the elegant/graceful movements of a longboard rather than the rude thrashings of the short board. I just might decide to switch…

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Filed under: Travel on July 9th, 2007