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Surfing in the Central Pacific

Well it was another crazy weekend on the Central Pacific coast of Costa Rica. The waves were big at Playa Hermosa (despite the misleading sign outside of Las Olas Hotel quoting a 4-5 foot day). The thing about this particular beach is that the waves are so thick you feel as if the wieght of the world crashes down on you if you get caught on the inside. The good thing is that the paddle out is not very tough (despite the ferocity of the break) because the waves break so close to shore and the shore is so slanted that the suction back out to sea helps the surfer immensely.

For the most part the waves were closed out and ugly looking, but you could find a few diamonds in the rough. I also saw some of the nastiest wipeouts too. People were going over the falls left and right and huge tubes were collapsing on surfers.

Overall, it was good to get wet, but not really worth paddling out. I guess that is the fate of the weekend warriors

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Written by patrick

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