Don’t Try This at Home: A Tico Bullfight in Liberia, Guanacaste.

Today marks the start of two very important fiestas civicas – in Nicoya and Liberia – both commemorating the annexation of the northwestern province from Nicaragua on July 25, 1824. Having frequented many such fiestas civicas (annual civic celebrations) as well as fiestas patronales (festivals in which a town celebrates its patron saint) I thought I would take the opportunity to share exactly what one might expect at such an event.

I will start by getting straight to the point. These fiestas generally focus on two things: livestock and beer. While the tone, size, popularity and traditional dress may vary from town to town, the parties will always include these two staples. Most spectator events revolve around farm life from topes (horse parades through town), to bull fighting, to horse and canine competitions. This is a time for the cowboys of Costa Rica to be proud of their heritage and show it off in the manliest way they know how, dressing up in cowboy boots, tight pants and cowboy hats and parading around on their best step horses.

The women get into the cowboy attitude just as much as the men, and one lucky girl is chosen annualy to be the Queen, and therefore the face of the celebrations. Even young children have their role and can be seen taking part in the parades on horseback. The parades also include cimarronas, or local bands that usually get into a pickup truck and add a festive sound to the hoofed mixture. Guests will line the streets similar to any Fourth of July or Thanksgiving parade in the states to cheer on their friends and brethren.

A Cimarrona Rolls Down the Streets of Liberia During a Parade.

The Bullfight

Another main event is the bullring. Bullfighting in Costa Rica actually puts the bulls at an advantage. One bull at a time is released into the ring filled with men (that may sound sexist, but I have yet to see a woman silly enough to enter). Often the bull bursts in in a rampage with a daring rider on his back tempting fate to hold on for several more seconds than his predecessor. Bulls are taunted, chased, and poked at as the participants run in zig zags across the ring tempting the bull to follow chase. There is a Red Cross station built into the side of the ring so that fallen bodies can be passed through a window to immediate care. There are actually public service announcements dissuading young boys from taking part, with the goal phasing such activity out for future generations.

Despite the many injuries and occasional death, the event is something to be seen and not experienced in my opinion. Admission to the stands above the ring generally goes for around $6 to $8 depending on the day of the week and the reputation of the bulls taking part that day. While you’re there try some typical Costa Rica food – vigarones (fried pork rinds served with a salad of chopped cabbage, tomatoes and lime juice) or green mangoes with salt and lime. In some bullrings, including Liberia, there is plenty of free space to watch the action from beneath the stands, but bring a fold up chair if you intend to stay for a while. And watch your fingers as you will find yourself face to face with the men dodging bull horns by climbing up the gate in front of you.

The Nightlife

If you have paced yourself well throughout the day and kept your stomach filled on typical festival cuisine, which includes, of all things, lo mein and Chinese fried rice, you may now consider the nightly festivities. One thing that may stand out to you upon arriving to any fair ground, are the giant toldos, or make-shift metal dance clubs that travel through the country to be constructed at such sites. With their own brand names like Peoples or Living, these structures often reach 3 stories high with up to five bars in each, along with a giant stage and dance floor. Check the schedule for special performances, while on regular nights you will generally find professional dancers providing entertainment while they bounce around to cumbia and reggaeton. There is generally an entrance fee to join in the party, but the energy is so high in these places that it is undoubtedly worth it (although ask to peek inside before you pay to be sure that the night is ripe for dancing, as a half-empty toldo can be a lonely experience).

For the serious partiers that make it to 5 a.m. after a night out in Liberia, it is tradition to join a morning parade called a Diana. The Diana is generally a car with giant speakers attached announcing quite loudly to the public that the festival is alive and well and that it is another day to party. Quite annoying for those asleep, joining the Diana parade is a worthwhile goal for any who happen to be awake at 5 a.m.

After getting some rest in, the schedule is often quite similar for the next day, so have at it again. Try some food or drink that you missed the day before, buy yourself a cowboy hat from a street vendor and be proud that you have survived the Fiestas Civicas de Liberia!

Extra pointers:

1. Don’t fear if you hear that a fiesta you plan to attend has yet to receive its permits just hours before the big event, this happens constantly, but it will be resolved and the party will go on.

2. While the event schedule points out main events such as parades, concerts and when the bullfighting starts, there are events going on constantly, so plan to just wander around and take it all in.

3. If you intend to get drunk, do not sit in the front row on the stands to watch the bullfighting, and better yet, get as far away from the ring as you can. Many a man who originally claimed it to be an archaic event has found himself in the ring after one too many beers.

4. Will celebrations come lots of alcohol and ‘toasts’. It is known that one of the three lies of Ticos is: “Sarpé!” a toast to the last drink of the night. This generally just leads to more drinking, don’t be misled.

5. The high-pitched yelps that you hear when mariachis or ranchero music is playing, no matter what other sounds they might resemble, are manly. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. So test those vocal cords and join right in if you want to experience the real deal.

6. For the party-harty, the last Saturday of the July fiestas in Liberia (July 26 this year) also marks another special event: the Fiesta Espinar. This annual party is put on by the wealthy Costa Rica Land -owning Espinar family at their farm Las Delicias. Never known to disappoint, this party goes on rain or shine all through the night until the sun comes up again. Special performances, food vendors, a VIP complex and a smaller bullring are all main attractions, and it has become a bit of a mecca for University students from San Jose to make the trek up. Expect stand still traffic for the last 2 kilometers when getting to the finca which is just outside of Liberia (follow the cars). Get there early (before 9 p.m.) if you want to get in. The line is long, and the drink rations (that come with the $20 entrance) don’t always last for the late arrivals. Ask any Tico friend, this is one party not to be missed.

For the full Expo-Liberia Schedule, visit the website: cadegali.com

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Filed under: Tico on July 18th, 2008