September is to Costa Rica what July is to the United States: a month filled with patriotic displays and celebrations of the country’s Dia de Independencia, which officially takes place on Sept. 15.

Costa Rica is a country brimming with national pride thanks in part to the fact that its Independence Day traditions that are highly centered around the younger generations. For the nation’s work force, Sept. 15 might be just one day off work, but for the school children, it marks the culmination of months of preparation and time to show off their artistic talent.

Central America actually declared its independence from Spain collectively from the colonial seat in Guatemala in 1821, meaning Sept. 15 is a day of celebration up and down the isthmus. As with most colonial government affairs, Costa Rica had little to do with the decision, and the region didn’t even learn of its independence until a full month later when a delegation arrived from Guatemala to pass on the news.

Every year, a flaming torch is carried from Guatemala starting on Sept. 11 all the way to the former colonial capital of Costa Rica in Cartago, symbolizing the arrival of the news of independence. The runners are selected from the local schools throughout Central America to carry the torch an average of 500 meters, a task that serves as a great source of pride. The torch crosses the Nicaraguan border into Costa Rica each year on the eve of the day of independence and arrives in the northern town of Liberia in time for a sunset ceremony on Sept. 14. Runners and bikers follow the torch route for varying distances, occasionally getting lost as outlying townspeople join the crowd to light their own torches to carry along their own divergent routes.

As the torch makes its way through Costa Rica, local townships kick off the two days of celebration with parades, mascaradas, concerts and cultural shows. School children are required to participate in their town parades in marching bands or by carrying “Faroles”, or elaborate homemade paper lanterns. Their designs sit atop or hang from a wooden stick with candles inside to light the way. It is a tradition for the children to make their own lanterns in patriotic colors, often in the form of a house, animal, vehicle or other creative representations of national symbols.

As the torch arrives in Cartago on Independence Day at 6 p.m. before the Basilica de Los Angeles, the entire country joins together in singing the national anthem “Noble patria, tu hermosa bandera”. The night is capped off with more parades, fireworks and local concerts. While visiting Costa Rica in September, you are sure to stumble upon a festive display of Tico pride and patriotism just about anywhere you go. Don’t forget to wear your red, white and blue and compliment the children on their faroles!

New Years in Costa Rica is a time for families to get together, enjoy the last days of vacation and celebrate their blessings of the year past and hope for good fortune in the year to come. The more superstitious population has a set of actions that they perform to insure just that, whereas much of the younger generations look to find a place to party.

One of the New Year’s superstitions, for all you travelers out there, involves carrying a backpack or piece of luggage around your house twice or crossing the street with it on Dec. 31st in order to invite more opportunities for travel in the year to come. Many housewives will sweep out the entire house, removing all evils of the year past, while others swear that throwing a pan of water over your shoulder will assure that all bad fortune from the year will remain in the past.

You may see many people donning yellow tonight as well, in hopes of luck in the coming year, and if you know these people more intimately, spotting red underwear might key you in that they are hoping for a new significant other or spouse to come into their life in 2009.

A traditional New Year’s meal in Costa Rica will almost always include pierna de cerdo as the main course (a leg of pork). It is also said that eating 12 grapes at midnight will give you 12 wishes or overall good luck in the New Year.

Noting the family nature of these activities, you may be sad to hear that Dec. 31st festivities are generally kept in the house. In fact, last year, following the advice of others I headed to the Fiestas de Zapote, wandering around waiting for the “Megabars” to start filling up, only to find that they closed the bars just after 11 p.m. because not enough employees showed up to keep them running. I ended up spending New Year’s at El Pueblo, a large bar complex on the U.S. Embassy’s “do not visit list”, which was so packed, it was hard to enjoy despite my satisfaction of having found ‘the party’.

This year there are many events to choose from throughout the country including gala dinners, street parties and open bar events. Here is a list of options that I have put together for the last minute planner. If you hope to just head out and see what’s going on, I recommend that you don’t. At least call the place you are heading to in advance to make sure they are indeed open, or choose one from the list below!

Where’s the Party At? Dec. 31, 2008:

San Jose and Environs:

- Ramada Plaza Herradura is hosting a gala dinner in the Conference Center, hosted by music group Marfil, beginning at 8 p.m. As of yesterday, 50% of the 840 tickets had been reserved, each going for $85, which included entertainment and dinner from 7 p.m. to 2 a.m.

- Hotel Crowne Plaza Corobici, just past La Sabana Park, will begin its festivities at 9 p.m. through 2 a.m., with performances by the music group Gerardo y Los Hicsos. The event costs 40,000 colones per person (about $73), and has a capacity for 500 people. Dinner, a glass of champagne and “lucky grapes” will be provided.

- Barcelo San Jose Palacio will be hosting two activities. At 9 p.m., a gala dinner will be served in the Salon Greco for up to 500 people. At midnight guests will enjoy a carnival, a typical Costa Rica music band, a magician as well as music by Requete and Charlie Rivera and Son del Pueblo. The second activity will take place at the hotel’s Bosque Bar and costs 30,000 colones (about $55) and includes appetizers for up to 260 people.

- At the Hotel Doubletree Cariari by Hilton, the party will take place pool side and includes a dinner, glass of champagne and live music by Entre Nos. The cost is $80 and the hotel expects to host about 150 people.

- Bar/Restaurant Casa Zeller in San Sebastian will be hosting Erick Sanchez y su Orquestra along with Sonora Show, calling all salsa lovers to participate starting at 9 p.m.

- Bar/Restaurant Baalbeck in San Rafael de Heredia will also be hosting a salsa themed New Year’s with the music group Chocolate starting at 10 p.m.

- The rather intence dance club Vertigo will be hosting two live DJs (Audiofly and Los 3 Amigos) starting at 9 p.m. at their Paseo Colon building locale with a 15,000 colones ($30) cover charge.

- The posh club Prive in Escazu will be hosting their Last & Best Party, which includes an open bar from 9 p.m. to 1 a.m., and free breakfast from Soda Tapia, with an unknown cover charge.

- El Van Gogh, a smaller dance bar located along the Carretera a Pavas near the U.S. Embassy will be hosting models, “surprises” and free breakfast. The cover charge for this is also unknown.

Guapiles:

- The Hotel Suerre will host the cumbia and merengue band Kalua, starting at 9 p.m. The hotel is offering tickets to enjoy the live music, dinner, one night’s stay and breakfast.

Northern Zone:

- At the meeting hall in Santa Rosa de Pocosol in San Carlos, guests will enjoy lively cumbia music performed by music groups Sonideras and Revelacion starting at 8 p.m.

Guanacaste:

- The Hotel Occidental Grand Papagayo will be hosting local music group Taboga Band at 8 p.m.

- The Upper Deck sports bar with Electro and Progressive music starting at 8pm, 4,000 cover includes 2 beers.

- Bahia del Sol Beachfront Hotel in Potrero will be hosting an even that includes dinner, an open bar for 3 hours, and live music for $70 per person

Additionally: If you don’t mind crowds, New Year’s is also a time when the Costa Rican population flocks to the beaches. I have heard that one of the best outdoor beach parties takes place in Mal Pais each year, attracting locals, tourists and locals from neighboring Montezuma and Santa Teresa. Jaco is another destination sure to have something going on for the true partier, and Quepos hosts a street party each year for New Year’s as well. And, no matter where you go, you will be sure to here the Mariachi New Year classic: “El Año Viejo” in which the downtrodden singer tells of all the ‘bovines’ that left him in the past year. Enjoy!

1. In the first official event of the Christmas season organized by the Municipality of San Jose, the Oxcart and Saints Parade, 300 oxcarts hit the streets of Costa Rica’s capital city this past Sunday, Nov. 30. This 12 year-old tradition unites colorfully painted oxcarts, oxen and their drivers from all over the country, each one carrying the statue of a saint. The parade began in La Sabana Park and finished on 2nd avenue with spectators lining the streets despite the inhospitable weather.

2. Next come the decorations. Last night, Monday, Dec. 4, marked the inauguration of the manger scene in front of the National Theater in San Jose (the baby Jesus will be added on the 25th). There was also a celebration held for the lighting of nearly 8,000 colored bulbs gracing the facade of the Children’s Museum, which included a musical performance and fireworks. Yet to come is the lighting of the tree in front of the Children’s Hospital, which is to represent the light of hope for those inside. With the town fully lit, including Christmas lights strung over the streets, a presentation was held at the National Theater in honor of the manager scene, which was followed by the first of three nights of Christmas Carols, which will be performed by national choir groups, a traditional event organized by the Theater each year. This free event will take place tonight and Wednesday night as well at the Plaza de la Cultura in front of the National Theater. Each evening will see 90 minutes of traditional and modern Christmas carols starting at around 6 p.m.

3. Like at home, the change in television programs also serves as a constant reminder of what month it is. Beyond the Christmas themed Hollywood movies dubbed in Spanish, the beginning of December marks the start of the Children’s Hospital telethon. The 48-hour telethon starts this Friday and will unite musicians from all over Latin America in the Sports Palace (Palacio de Deportes) in Heredia to inspire residents and companies to try and reach the year’s goal of over $850,000, to help the burn victims unit in the hospital. Come Christmas time, “El Chinamo”, a non-stop party is televised with commentators challenging attendees to competitions and contests for nearly 12 days — the duration of the “Fiestas de Zapote” (see below).

4. The brisk “Christmas winds” start to blow toward the end of November all over the country, causing temperatures to drop and overcoats to come out. It may be an odd image for anyone who hasn’t seen it, but I assure you, scarves and warm hats become the norm in San Jose to fight off the biting winds and cool evenings, whereas afternoons can still get up to the 80s. This is also the beginning of the dry season, which will last until April, welcoming outdoor activities with clear skies.

5. On Dec. 13, the Christmas spirit will really kick in with the traditional Festival de la Luz in downtown San Jose from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. The “Light Festival” sees shinning, brightly lit floats slide down Paseo Colon with high school marching bands animating the thousands of attendees. This year, the guest of honor will be Maria Jose Castillo, who finished in 2nd place for this year’s Latin American Idol competition. The parade has such a large showing every year that the news channels broadcast advice on how to not lose your children, dress for the frigid weather and avoid pickpockets and petty theft.

6. All through the month, shopping centers and the pedestrian parkway in downtown San Jose can be seen flooded with shoppers looking for a ‘ganga’ or deal. In an effort to support the annual boost to the economy, employers in the country are obligated by law to offer a substantial Christmas bonus to all employees that have worked for a certain amount of time for the company. For anyone employed in the same place for the past fiscal year, this would amount to an extra month’s salary.

7. While out in the street amid the bustle of the season, you may also notice tables set up on street corners with chatty salespersons offering the “Gordo Navideño”. This is in reality, the “fat Christmas one”, or the biggest lottery of the year, worth over $1.1 million in total. While a regular lottery system circulates throughout the year, the Gordo Navideño is the most popular and brings out the most hopeful and superstitious buyers.

8. To warm up during meal time (and in between), Costa Ricans reach for tamales as a principal dish during Christmas. The most traditional of Costa Rica food, these banana leaf-wrapped pies of corn dough, meat and vegetables are so popular that stores often run out of supplies. It is a tradition among women in the country to get together and cook an endless supply of tamales for the season. Another popular treat of the season are apples and grapes. You will find street vendors selling the two, often alongside Christmas decorations, a dead giveaway that ‘tis the season!

9. If filling up on tamales, singing Christmas carols, decking the halls and enjoying the December parades hasn’t put you in the holiday spirit, Dec. 24th may be your last chance! “La Noche Buena” is time for the real Christmas feasting, and the evening that the Baby Jesus (rather than Santa Claus) arrives to leave gifts for family members. The following morning, the families give thanks to the Baby Jesus, and truly religious families will attend a midnight mass called “La Misa del Gallo”, or the Rooster Mass.

10. The BIGGEST outdoor activity of the season, las Fiestas de Zapote, begin on Christmas day in the southeastern neighborhood of San Jose, Zapote. This two week long festival combines carnival rides, food, bars, make-shift dance halls called “toldos”, and Costa Rican bull fights. “El Chinamo” is broadcast on site through the duration of the festivals and involves lots of dance contests and various competitions and getting the attendees involved.

Photo courtesy of La Nacion.

Not being able to report on the beautiful weather on such an un-beautiful day, the team at Costa Rica Pages has been racking their brains about the weird and wonderful daily happenings that make up our lives in Costa Rica. Here are some of our findings!

Culinary delights: it will not take you long to get just a little bit fed up of the never ending chicken, beans and rice. What was that? Mm hm: more chicken, beans and rice. Wholesome and belly warming though they may be, those seeking a change will be thrilled to find out that McDonald’s and Burger King do home delivery. All of the normal nutritious delights are on offer, with the McPinto as a local addition: that is, Gallo Pinto, McDonald’s stylee. (Translation: egg and – oh yes – beans and rice.)

Naming the kids: bring on equality and female empowerment! Children in Costa Rica take both their father’s and their mother’s last name, albeit with the father’s name first. Middle names will often be publicly displayed too, meaning that a Costa Rica business card could read something like: Randy Roberto González Rodríguez. You will see this abbreviated too, either to Randy Roberto González R. or simply (well, more simply) Randy González R. Somewhat clearer, now? While the name Pablo Ramirez Ramirez may now elicit some snickers, note that just like the Smiths of the United States and England, this does not mean that their parents were closely related.

Road-trip: trekking through Costa Rica in a vehicle is just not easy. Although containing over 35,000 km of highways, a meagre 12% are actually paved. With six months of rain, rain, rain, if your travel to Costa Rica falls between May-October, road travel will be tricky. Onto some road language: in England, speed bumps are referred to as “sleeping policeman”, but it seems those coppers would not fair well here in Costa Rica. The slang is muertos, the translation being: “dead people”. Ooh-er!

Matters of cleanliness: for those with their sights set on sweet romance in Costa Rica, you shall be pleased to know that Ticos treat cleanliness with a high order of gravity. Visit their house and you shall not find a speck of dust. In addition, every Costa Rican must have a desk drawer, because that desk drawer is home to a toothbrush. Before breakfast, after breakfast, and a further two or three times do these Costa Ricans clean their teeth: yes, be prepared for a minty fresh first kiss if you get lucky with a Tico.

Just plain strange: forget a nod in the right direction or that oh-so-rude finger point. Directions will be given to you in Costa Rica with a pout of the lips. Think of blowing a kiss but without the final lip smack. I can assure you this is true, having fallen about in heaps of giggles when my boss “lip-pointed” at an imaginary plant and my other colleague turned his head asking “where!?”. Continuing on this sweet theme, Costa Ricans do not refer to their “other half”, but rather, their media naranja – the, uh, other half of their orange.

Additions appreciated!

Every country has certain stories designed to send goose bumps down your spine. Like most folklore, the story lines often resemble stories from your own home country, and have been adapted to include localized names, artifacts and cultural points. Costa Rica is no exception, with its legends and scary stories designed in part to frighten people into following moral norms as well as simply scare the bejesus out of you!

Haunted Sites in Costa Rica

If you ask anyone to name one haunted building in Costa Rica, the old Tuberculosis Hospital, Prusia, is an almost automatic response. The large complex set near the Irazu Volcano in Cartago served several purposes during its functional life: as a hospital for tuberculosis and leprosy patients, an insane asylum (under the name Sanatorio Carlos Duran) as well as an orphanage for children. The complex is currently abandoned with guards patroling the grounds during the day, though they say few dare to go there at night.

A cloud of rumors hangs over the building, from ghost sightings to hearing voices and even people seeing old coins being thrown out of the patients’ rooms. It is said that the tuberculosis patients underwent inhumane tests and were often left to fend for themselves in jail-like conditions. One reoccurring ghost sighting has been that of an old nun. Once a journalist from the University of Costa Rica went to inspect the site and held an interview with someone on the premises. When she went on to describe her interviewee, she was told that the old nun was no longer of this world, though she had been spotted several times before by others visiting the area.

Almost anyone who has visited claims to have experienced the paranormal presence from cold chills to moving shadows and the appearance of unexplained ‘clouds’ in the photos taken there. A local rock group also chose the old hospital as the site for a music video, which helped to make the general population aware of its scary appearance and apparitions.

The old island prison of San Lucas, now a limited tourist destination, is another area of Costa Rica that may be haunted by spirits once interned in the maximum security prison, never to leave again. The prison can be visited on tours organized by the Costa Rica Tourism Institute, where one can experience the tiny cells that held from 60 to 80 prisoners at a time. Graffiti on the walls tells the tale of misery and frustration, and some of it was rumored to have been written in blood.

Another property that is said to be haunted in San Jose is the home of the ‘7 ahorcados’, or the seven hanging victims. Stories detail the group murder of a family living in the towering home located in Barrio California, San Jose. However, as this is a private property that still belongs to a Costa Rican family, no one has been able to actually visit the property and neighbors claim that the story is a farce.

Finally, the beach at Playa Grande on the Nicoya Peninsula is also rumored to receive frequent visitors of the cloudy white variety. The beach, located just 30 minutes from Montezuma, is said to have been the site of an ancient burial ground with roaming spirits that don’t welcome night visitors. Camping overnight there is prohibited, but night hikes can be arranged during your visit to the region.

Costa Rican Legends

Two particular characters from Costa Rican lore target men who have had too much to drink on their way home at night. One, El Cadejos, was originally a young boy with a penchant for partying. His father turned the boy into a black dog destined to roam the streets at night in search of unlucky fellows with the same vice. The other, La Segua, is a beautiful woman who was left heart broken by a Spanish officer. She now spends her nights roaming the streets tempting men to come after her. Those that do will see La Segua turn into a fierce beast with bloodshot eyes.

Should women feel that they are safe from the ghosts of Costa Rican legends, think again! La Llorona (the crier) is a common figure in Latin American folklore, who can be heard crying at night for different reasons. In Costa Rica, La Llorona is said to be the ghost of a young married woman named Maria who gave birth to her lover’s child. Not knowing how to deal with the grief, she threw the baby into a river. She now roams the country in search of her dead baby and giving a warning cry to any woman who would consider infidelity.

Another tale, likely created by men, tells of a deadly bug called La Machaca. Once bitten by La Machaca, a young girl must have sex with a man within 24 hours to avoid death.

One last popular legend that is very much Costa Rican is that of the Ox Cart without a driver. It is said that the legend comes from the 1800s when the filibuster William Walker was attempting to invade Costa Rica from Nicaragua in the north. As the Costa Rican soldiers returned to the urban populations, they brought with them a cholera epidemic. As the disease spread more and more, the victims of the plague had to be carried off in oxcarts. The sound of oxcarts began to haunt the locals at night. People stopped going out after dark for fear of running into the ghost oxcarts. Finally, one man who had to travel overnight to get medicine for his child heard the sound. To protect himself, he drove a cross into the ground, which made the image of the ox cart without a driver appear, floating just above the ground.

To avoid a run-in with Costa Rican spirits, it seems that fidelity and staying in at night are key! On that note, check out our Halloween Events article to see where the party is at this weekend, and a Happy Halloween to all of you visiting or living in Costa Rica during this frightful holiday:

http://www.costaricapages.com/blog/social/costa-rica-witches/1586

In Guanacaste a sculptor is creating inspiring works of art using trunks and abandoned pieces of wood that he finds on the beach and in the forests. Rodolfo Uder uses precious tropical woods such as Ron-Ron, Rosewood and Purple Heart and adapts their shape and colors to produce contemporary pieces that hold a strong message; that of saving the tropical forest from extinction and the need to care for its magnificent trees. The wood speaks for itself in this art, with the way Uder lets its natural beauty speak out. Indeed with so much wood left ashore it does seem a pity to let it go to waste. Uder lives by the beach, in Paraiso de Santa Cruz, and has no shortage of raw material.

Uder is a professional agronomist and his love of nature has joined his creativity in an effort to promote conservation. His exhibition is on show in the Cultural Institute of Mexico and in the Gallery 87 (in the old Fanal Building in downtown San Jose) simultaneously.

With much humility, Uder points out that Mother Nature is the artist, and that he is participating by offering a helping hand! The way he knows how to adapt the natural shapes of the pieces of wood and his use of their colors and markings suggest an extension of nature’s work rather than the creation of a human being.

“Tropical wood is by itself a work of art,” he said. “All it needs is our ability to perceive their natural beauty.” Uder knows how to take advantage of their textures and colors, and cleverly follows the scars left by the sea, the fire, insects and the mushroom stains. For Uder, any piece of wood holds a message. He shows us human figures, happy, sad or terrorized faces, busts of some forgotten celebrity, or animal figures found in this country. Uder explains that because wood is a warm material, a balance is necessarily found with the use of geometrical forms.

As a perfect display for such art, the town of San Ramon, Alajuela is hosting the V Meeting of Sculpture San Ramon 2008 and uniting wood sculpture artists who dedicate their work to conservation and the protection of the environment.

Eleven sculptors from all over the country are taking part in this yearly event, where poetry and wood are brought together to give us a message of hope. The event started last Tuesday and is expected to last until next Sunday. Its main goal is to fire up the creativity of the younger population. The art of sculpturing wood demands a certain kind of love and communication between the artist and the wood, a harmony has to be present in order to arrive to the creation of a piece of art that can truly talk to us with its soul. Artists show great respect for the wood, the trees and Mother Nature; this is not about using wood, this is about mutual cooperation between artist and material.

Artists such as Ulises Jimenez and his son Pablo from Nicoya, Osvaldo Madrigal from Orotina, Luis Alonso Ramírez of Grecia, Marielos Miranda of Heredia and Jacqueline Córdoba from San Jose create pieces that may have been thought of in advance or just born out of instant inspiration. Invited guests from San Ramon include Leandro Moya, Rodolfo Varela, Roxana Badilla, Domingo Ramos and Raúl Gamboa.

The exhibition is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in San Ramon’s Central Park. If you are visiting or living in Costa Rica, be sure to come pay witness to these artists who understand that art, far from being destructive, is only an extension of nature itself and can teach us respect, humility and care.

Photo courtesy of La Nacion.

Having lived in Costa Rica for over 16 years now, I feel I am well qualified to write about the Ticos! The word Tico, or Tica, comes from the population’s tendancy to add “ico” and “ica” at the end of words; how often to we hear, un momentico, por favor!

Costa Ricans are, I believe, unique. You may cross the Southern or Northern border and understand why. Latinos they are; they are full of life, they love salsa and rice and beans, and many things can be left until mañana. They love merengue, cumbia and salsa, they try to take it easy and they are always ready to give a helping hand. They differ from their neighbors in more ways than can be understood at a glance.

Out of the 4,113,884 inhabitants (in 2007), about 95% of the population is literate, and that is the highest literacy rate of the whole of Latin America, a little detail Ticos will never let you forget! Most Ticos are fairly light skinned, many of European descent, with only 1.9% of African decent, who live mostly in the Limon Province. They first arrived in this country when they were brought from Jamaica to build the banana railway running from San Jose to Limon. Many speak English or an English dialect called patois. They were heavily discriminated against until the 1949 constitution that gave them equal legal rights.

The Indian population is very small as well, and represents only 1.7% of the Costa Rican people. Out of nearly 70,000, almost 40% live in the Limon Province. The Bribris, in Talamanca on the southeastern border near the border with Panama form the largest group. These people still hold on to their culture and produce some of the most interesting arts and crafts of the country. The Borucas, the Huetar and the Malekus (famous for their masks), the Chorotegas and the Terrabas are spread out in small isolated groups within the country and are often very difficult to find. Some Indigenous though have integrated into the rest of the population and completely lost their old way of life. Because the Indian tradition is so small here, ceremonies appear on the whole to be far less folkloric and colorful than in Mexico or Guatemala, for example. In addition, about 0.2% of Ticos claim some kind of Chinese ancestry.

Costa Rica has developed, grown and changed dramatically over the last few decades. Some twenty years ago, French was the major language taught in schools. Now, the influence of the United States is everywhere, and indeed many Ticos are attracted by the U.S. way of life, culture, food and ways of thinking. The young generation is still very conservative on the whole. Family plays an important role in the life of the Ticos, and even when they choose to party, they often do it with the family. It is still considered normal for the children to “stay at home” until they marry, and that can stretch until they are 30 years old or more! Ticos are Catholic, but maybe not as religious as some of their neighbors. Easter Week is the biggest holiday here, and while many go and celebrate at the beach, the religious side is never forgotten.

Machismo here is still very present in the home, even though the role of the women has seen drastic changes. The majority of women study, go to university and get a job, however some of the old traditional ways are still there. It was recently reported that women in Costa Rica earn 78% of what the men earn. Single mothers are now seen everywhere, yet the family ties are still strong. On the whole, a Costa Rican man will respect and love his wife and give her the freedom she needs, up to a point; however domestic violence is still a strong issue in the country.

A Tico will always be ready to give a hand, and are always eager to help those in need, whether they are locals or foreigners. They are straightforward in the way they deal with people, yet it is not always easy to distinguish what their true feelings are. Their friendliness, offered with a great smile on first encounters, doesn’t necessarily go too deep. The Costa Ricans do not open up so easily and indeed, it may take years to get to establish a solid and true friendship. They do not mean any harm by this, and may not even always be aware of it. Their strong family ties and traditions may be the reason for this difficulty they have to open up to strangers. It may be due to their humility and simplicity, or they may feel satisfied with what they have that they do not feel the need for more.

They do present a great heart when opened, and have a distinctive charm that is hard to beat. They have a solid philosophy that has so far done them good, and try desperately to hang on to it in this fast changing society. Costa Ricans love nature, they are farmers at heart, and they are proud of their beautiful Costa Rica land and wildlife, and who could blame them?

The bridge over the Guacimal River along the Interamerican highway in Sardinal, Guanacaste, finally had one lane opened for ’slow’ passage this morning after a support gave way causing part of the bridge to fall half a meter below the level of the highway. The road was closed for a couple of days along a route which is transited by 9,000 vehicles daily and serves as the only way for large trucks and buses to get between Guanacaste and the rest of the country.

The bridge closing resulted in great chaos and delays. Truck drivers and bus routes were particularly affected, as smaller roads are not an option for them. Smaller vehicles were provided several alternative routes along even poorer kept roads including heading to San Carlos, La Fortuna, and around the lake to Tilaran where they would finally reconnect with the main road in Cañas. Those heading to the peninsula of Nicoya were forced to take the ferry to Playa Naranjo instead.

Bus routes were limited to day time passages as passengers had to dismount the bus, cross the bridge by foot and continue a total of 1.2 kilometers with their bags to a bus waiting on the other side. While some bus lines seemed to pull this off without a hitch, one traveler noted that two full bus loads from San Jose converged awaiting the connecting bus on the other side, and had to fight to claim their seats. An even worse situation was found for truck drivers who had to stay with their cargo as little security was provided, and limited food supplies were available.

I have lived in Costa Rica for 16 years, and roads are still the number one concern for residents and visitors alike. They continuously come up as a favorite topic of conversation, and it looks like it is going to be for many more years to come!

It is difficult to know why this problem cannot be solved once and for all, as it seems that road work is incessant in this country, so the lack of money doesn’t seem to be the main issue! Indeed, it is not less an issue of a lack of money but more so how it is spent, without any good planning.

Let’s take for example the Multiplaza shopping mall: it has an access road coming from Paco, in Escazu; 5 years ago there was nothing on this road, then companies started to settle down there. One of the first things that happened was that they built a better road. Soon, however, construction teams started to dig up this road, up and down, making huge holes to install pipes, cables and whatever else is needed whenever a new mall or company was being built. The end result is the typical patchwork and potholes that make Costa Rica roads so famous.

The local solution for such problems is not much better than the Ministry of Transportation’s. When a hole is discovered, someone always finds something to stick into it, a branch, a stick, or a lead pipe, so that the cars, instead of falling in the hole can get even more damaged when they drive over it!

Works are now under way, after many years stalling and talking and finding the money, for the San Jose-Caldera Highway. The road is now undergoing major construction, as it will have six lanes all the way… except that of course, the new bridges that are now ready only have two lanes each! One doesn’t need a degree to see that this will cause enormous queues when heavy traffic will try to squeeze in these bottlenecks… further example of great planning!

The state of Costa Rican roads is a joke. As Costa Rica tourism continues to gain in popularity, why isn’t the government ashamed of this? This country’s future lies in tourism, it has so much to offer, it is a beautiful country, unique with its extensive flora and fauna.

We aren’t asking for a miracle, just roads, normal roads. I have traveled by car in Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala; they are all poorer than Costa Rica, by far, yet, the roads are fabulous! It is really something to be embarrassed about, and it is time for less promises and more action from the part of the government of this country.

Photo courtesy of La Nacion.

The 10th Festival of the Black Culture will kick off today, with an interesting variety of typical activities, with music, food, art and more. The province of Limon, although the poorest of the country, has all it takes to be the richest; its culture is alive and kicking, rich and colorful, and getting stronger. From Calypso to the Reggae, together with a good rice and beans a good rum and coke in hand, watching the moon rise over the mysterious waters of the Caribbean Sea, this culture offers everything any tourist may dream of and expect when visiting a Caribbean Country.

The Black Cultural Festival will last the entire month, with its theme “Lets go back to the Roots”. On August 31st, the highlight of the festival will take place with the celebration of the Day of the Blacks and AfroCostarican Culture.

Most of the events take place in Limon, with the Costa Rican Calypso Festival, conferences about Caribbean Art, presentation of books and poetry, concerts and of course, Caribbean food! This is when enthusiasts have an opportunity to vote for Miss Black Beauty 2008, a well sought after designation that has become a traditional activity during the festival.

Added to the festivities this year will be a presentation by the X Festival of the Rescue of Cultural Values of Siquirres, with dances, music with the group Beachers from Panama, also featuring fashion shows, and the Festival Africultural Limon Roots 2008, which will take place in Limon and in Puntarenas, and a single presentation in the Melico Salazar theatre in San Jose.

This activity is hopefully going to promote the province of Limon, which is home to the best Costa Rica food, and most interesting, distinctive culture. The port of Limon in Moin is itself undergoing changes and modernization, and it plans to be ready for the cruising season that starts in a couple of months, bringing in thousands of tourists with each boat.

Limon’s reputation as a violent and dangerous destination has proven fatal to the economy of the province, and it is now working very hard in order to reestablish itself as an exciting destination that is not to be missed. It is hoped also that with more events of this type, creating more jobs and activities, crime will slowly but surely be eliminated from this beautiful province.

Costa Rica is without a doubt a Caribbean destination, and it must be proud to be so, and display all it has to offer to the world. Indeed these activities hope to attract the foreign tourists as well as the national ones, as its popularity amongst Costa Ricans is maybe even more damaged than abroad. Many Ticos have never visited this province, believing it to be dangerous and unsafe, unaware of the treasures it has to offer, without any knowledge of its culture, of the beauty of its beaches, the richness of its flora and fauna, and the spirit of its inhabitants.

Photo courtesy of La Republica newspaper.

Today marks the start of two very important fiestas civicas – in Nicoya and Liberia – both commemorating the annexation of the northwestern province from Nicaragua on July 25, 1824. Having frequented many such fiestas civicas (annual civic celebrations) as well as fiestas patronales (festivals in which a town celebrates its patron saint) I thought I would take the opportunity to share exactly what one might expect at such an event.

I will start by getting straight to the point. These fiestas generally focus on two things: livestock and beer. While the tone, size, popularity and traditional dress may vary from town to town, the parties will always include these two staples. Most spectator events revolve around farm life from topes (horse parades through town), to bull fighting, to horse and canine competitions. This is a time for the cowboys of Costa Rica to be proud of their heritage and show it off in the manliest way they know how, dressing up in cowboy boots, tight pants and cowboy hats and parading around on their best step horses.

The women get into the cowboy attitude just as much as the men, and one lucky girl is chosen annualy to be the Queen, and therefore the face of the celebrations. Even young children have their role and can be seen taking part in the parades on horseback. The parades also include cimarronas, or local bands that usually get into a pickup truck and add a festive sound to the hoofed mixture. Guests will line the streets similar to any Fourth of July or Thanksgiving parade in the states to cheer on their friends and brethren.

A Cimarrona Rolls Down the Streets of Liberia During a Parade.

The Bullfight

Another main event is the bullring. Bullfighting in Costa Rica actually puts the bulls at an advantage. One bull at a time is released into the ring filled with men (that may sound sexist, but I have yet to see a woman silly enough to enter). Often the bull bursts in in a rampage with a daring rider on his back tempting fate to hold on for several more seconds than his predecessor. Bulls are taunted, chased, and poked at as the participants run in zig zags across the ring tempting the bull to follow chase. There is a Red Cross station built into the side of the ring so that fallen bodies can be passed through a window to immediate care. There are actually public service announcements dissuading young boys from taking part, with the goal phasing such activity out for future generations.

Despite the many injuries and occasional death, the event is something to be seen and not experienced in my opinion. Admission to the stands above the ring generally goes for around $6 to $8 depending on the day of the week and the reputation of the bulls taking part that day. While you’re there try some typical Costa Rica food – vigarones (fried pork rinds served with a salad of chopped cabbage, tomatoes and lime juice) or green mangoes with salt and lime. In some bullrings, including Liberia, there is plenty of free space to watch the action from beneath the stands, but bring a fold up chair if you intend to stay for a while. And watch your fingers as you will find yourself face to face with the men dodging bull horns by climbing up the gate in front of you.

The Nightlife

If you have paced yourself well throughout the day and kept your stomach filled on typical festival cuisine, which includes, of all things, lo mein and Chinese fried rice, you may now consider the nightly festivities. One thing that may stand out to you upon arriving to any fair ground, are the giant toldos, or make-shift metal dance clubs that travel through the country to be constructed at such sites. With their own brand names like Peoples or Living, these structures often reach 3 stories high with up to five bars in each, along with a giant stage and dance floor. Check the schedule for special performances, while on regular nights you will generally find professional dancers providing entertainment while they bounce around to cumbia and reggaeton. There is generally an entrance fee to join in the party, but the energy is so high in these places that it is undoubtedly worth it (although ask to peek inside before you pay to be sure that the night is ripe for dancing, as a half-empty toldo can be a lonely experience).

For the serious partiers that make it to 5 a.m. after a night out in Liberia, it is tradition to join a morning parade called a Diana. The Diana is generally a car with giant speakers attached announcing quite loudly to the public that the festival is alive and well and that it is another day to party. Quite annoying for those asleep, joining the Diana parade is a worthwhile goal for any who happen to be awake at 5 a.m.

After getting some rest in, the schedule is often quite similar for the next day, so have at it again. Try some food or drink that you missed the day before, buy yourself a cowboy hat from a street vendor and be proud that you have survived the Fiestas Civicas de Liberia!

Extra pointers:

1. Don’t fear if you hear that a fiesta you plan to attend has yet to receive its permits just hours before the big event, this happens constantly, but it will be resolved and the party will go on.

2. While the event schedule points out main events such as parades, concerts and when the bullfighting starts, there are events going on constantly, so plan to just wander around and take it all in.

3. If you intend to get drunk, do not sit in the front row on the stands to watch the bullfighting, and better yet, get as far away from the ring as you can. Many a man who originally claimed it to be an archaic event has found himself in the ring after one too many beers.

4. Will celebrations come lots of alcohol and ‘toasts’. It is known that one of the three lies of Ticos is: “Sarpé!” a toast to the last drink of the night. This generally just leads to more drinking, don’t be misled.

5. The high-pitched yelps that you hear when mariachis or ranchero music is playing, no matter what other sounds they might resemble, are manly. Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. So test those vocal cords and join right in if you want to experience the real deal.

6. For the party-harty, the last Saturday of the July fiestas in Liberia (July 26 this year) also marks another special event: the Fiesta Espinar. This annual party is put on by the wealthy Costa Rica land -owning Espinar family at their farm Las Delicias. Never known to disappoint, this party goes on rain or shine all through the night until the sun comes up again. Special performances, food vendors, a VIP complex and a smaller bullring are all main attractions, and it has become a bit of a mecca for University students from San Jose to make the trek up. Expect stand still traffic for the last 2 kilometers when getting to the finca which is just outside of Liberia (follow the cars). Get there early (before 9 p.m.) if you want to get in. The line is long, and the drink rations (that come with the $20 entrance) don’t always last for the late arrivals. Ask any Tico friend, this is one party not to be missed.

For the full Expo-Liberia Schedule, visit the website: cadegali.com