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Papagayo: Another Jewel of Costa Rica

Written by Mireille

Papagayo it is the lesser populated part of Guanacaste, yet the most stunning! Located in the Northern part of Guanacaste on the Pacific coast, it has a wild feel to it that is invigorating and mystifying.  With its beautiful twelve white sand bays, crystal water and gorgeous views it is home to luxurious all inclusive resorts such as the Four Seasons.  There are however no huge beach towns and it also has some very nice small and intimate hotels; with its untamed beaches and infinite horizons, this area is still very pristine and wild.   it is the ideal place to be to get away from everything and everyone, and if you are a sun and sea worshipper, then you found your place.

Rincon de la Vieja National Park and Volcano, and Santa Rosa are a stone throw away and so is the capital of Guanacaste, Liberia, with its an International Airport

Papagayo’s beautiful beaches are also excellent for swimming, scuba diving, sports fishing and surfing, depending on which beach you go. In Papagayo you will find the only wind surfing beach in Costa Rica, in Bahia Salinas or Bolanos Bay windsurfing is a big attraction; it is possible to wind surf all year around.
Papagayo is also a traditional destination for bird watchers and nature lovers. The wilderness, flora and fauna, are really awesome.  The tranquility and beauty are truly hard to beat!
The beaches of Papagayo are usually lined by almond or coconut trees for a little more shade that you need so that you may to stay in the sun just a little longer.  The sunsets are every time even more impossibly spectacular. And for the avid surfers,  Witches Rock is famous  throughout the whole world for its fantastic break.
The Papagayo Tourist Project together with the government of Costa Rica are monitoring the growth of the region and the sustainability protects the gulf against destructive development, as we have seen in other places. When in Papagayo, try to see Playa Arenilla, Playa Blanca, playa Pez and Vela Playa Escondida. Charming little towns like Sardinal are just a short drive away and is worth a short stop while on the way to more popular beaches such as Playa de Coco, Playa Flamingo Playa Ocotal, and Play Hermosa.

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Bullfighting in Costa Rica

Written by Mireille

The so called “bullfights” of Costa Rica come with a big difference: There is no fighting! That is to say, the bull does not get hurts, the somewhat foolish humans who day confront these huge guys however do get hurt by the dozen, but it never seems to stop them and there are always too many volunteers! Toros a la Tica, as it is commonly called here, is very popular in all sorts of Fiesta, especially in Guanacaste, where most little towns and villages come complete with their Plaza del Toro.

To get into the ring, you must first sign up and wait for your turn. Once you are in, you are face to face with a choleric giant, a pure mass of muscle that has been trained to knock you down. Being knocked down by a huge champion bull should by no means be a pleasant experience, but to some young men or women, it seems to be the highlight of their day! Depending on the size of the ring, there can be up to hundreds of people inside at the same time. What you are supposed to do? Well, to avoid being stabbed by the bull’s stalk and stomp!

What makes this “sport” so amusing, for the spectator, is that the participants have absolutely no idea of what they should exactly be doing! They run aimlessly, many scarred for their lives, chased by a couple of tons of live stock! The adrenaline rush they feel is written all over their faces, and it is hard to understand why they ever want to go back in there again! The sheer terror on their faces is absolutely hilarious and priceless! Yet they do, over and over, they run, jump over the fence of the ring, and go back in, smacking the stump of the bull so that they can have another go, and on and on it goes, at the sound of the comical commentaries of the announcers. They keep going back, sometimes some do end up in the hospital, but this is part of the game, it is supposed to happen!

If you want see, and participate, in the best bullfight of the country, you will need to go to Zapote, if you happen to be here around Christmas time. This large ring welcomes hundreds of brave victims who risk their clothes being ripped or worse! How to be made fun of in style!

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How to Drive in Costa Rica

Written by Mireille

While driving in Costa Rica will save you some time and definitely will allow you to discover and see more of this wonderful country, you also need to know what you are getting yourself into;  in Costa Rica, like in any other Latin Country, driving is a sport. Once sitting behind the wheel, you need to know the rules if you want to make it from A to B in one piece!

According to the local newspapers, there are more people killed here from car accidents than from homicides (average number of homicides in Latin America is 20 per 100,000). The safety of the roads here is the worst of the world!

The appalling state of the roads including the notorious pot holes, the lack of signalization and infrastructure and the terrible driving habits are to blame. However, all this is going to change, according to UN Decade of Action for Road Safety 2011, and international organization; it is hoping to cut down on road death by half before the year 2020, which means an incredible 325,000 lives saved in Latin America.

This is not however meant to put you off driving in Costa Rica, but to warn you. There are certain rules you will need to know in order to have the holiday of a lifetime!

If you are renting, choose a rental company of reputation, and take a 4X4 or 4X2 vehicle; Not only will this widen your choice of destination, it will also come in handy when the rains are heavy;  the height of the car is just as useful, if not more, than the four wheel drive. Make sure the tires and the windscreen wipers are good.

Get yourself a good road map; road signs are better here, but they are still scarce and a map will avoid you getting lost and driving many extra hours.

Respect the speed limits; they are there for a good reason, and the police are usually waiting well hidden in strategic points too; should you get caught, you risk having the car confiscated and your license with it!

Give you to anything big; Buses trucks always have the right of way, they are bigger than you. They will not hesitate to prove this to you by forcing their way, and win. Stay safe.

Be careful of the pot holes; they can be very difficult to see, especially at night and in the rain! Some people stick large objects in them with the idea to make them more visible, however this makes them even more dangerous!

Watch out for bikers and cyclists; they have no special roads or paths, and roads are badly lit; most buses and trucks drivers have little respect for them in this country.

Watch out for landslides; most particularly in the rainy season, landslides are very common in Costa Rica. In some cases, whole bits of road may disappear.

If in doubt, use your horn; there is nothing wrong with using it for all sorts of reasons here, don’t be shy!

Careful with wild animals on the road; you will see sloths, iguanas and turtles trying to make it to the other side, of course at an incredibly slow pace.

Finally, careful with the people; Costa Rican do not always use common sense or are not very good at judging speed,  and throw themselves in front of your car. Be prepared!

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Teaching English in Costa Rica

Written by Mireille

Teaching English as a foreign language seems like the perfect solution if you want to travel and live abroad. After all, everyone wants to speak English! In many countries, little qualifications are required, a little experience and native language are often more important. In Costa Rica, there is a very high demand for English teachers, always, so why wait?

All is not as it seems!

At first glance, Costa Rica seems like the ideal solution. Many call centers have established themselves here, with an even higher demand for English Speakers. This country is classified as a developing country, rather than a third world, like some of its neighbors. It is relatively safe and pleasant. It is beautiful, with some of the most stunning beaches and rain forests of the world, with an outstanding biological diversity. Tourism is booming, which in turns also means a higher demand of English speakers. So what is the problem?

Money.

Salaries are less than satisfactory in this country, or sufficient, while the cost of living is soaring! My daughter just visited from UK and she was amazed upon finding that food costs more here! Teaching is no exception, indeed, because it usually pays by the hour you will find yourself trying miserably to make ends meet and to survive out of a meager income. If you want to live comfortably, rent decent dwellings and explore this wonderful country, you will find it very difficult to achieve, if not impossible! Don’t even dream of saving!

The work visa is another issue as most companies do not help you with the procedures. They will however give you the extra day every 3 months to hop over the border to renew your tourist visa. This solution however can only be temporary. If you do not have a visa, everything is a headache, more often than not, impossible; you cannot get a cellular phone line if you do not have your residency, you cannot open a bank account, etc.

As a teacher, your private life will have to go out the window. Extra hours will suddenly be assigned to you without prior warning, either very late at night or very early in the morning, sometimes during the weekends.  They also may be removed without your knowledge. You may be given students who live on the other side of town where it takes over an hour to get to.

These are of course worse scenarios but they are worth contemplating. You will also need to decide where in Costa Rica you want to live; will it be in the Central Valley, in San Jose, where in San Jose, or will it be on the coast somewhere, and if so, which coast, the Pacific or the Caribbean? Or do you prefer to live near a rain forest? What are the potentials? What are the pros and cons?

San Jose may offer more possibilities yet most people do not come here to spend so much time in the capital. There are now some beach towns such as Tamarindo that offer you live on the beach, but again, all is not as it seems! For many such places are considered to be an outcry, ecological disasters that damage the beautiful and fragile environment.

If after reading this you still want to come and teach here, welcome to Costa Rica,  the Pura Vida land of sun, sea, beach, parrots, toucans, howler monkeys, sloth, Ocelot and Jaguars.  The land of flamboyant sunsets and tropical storms, of primary forests and volcanoes. Welcome to Costa Rica!

While these considerations may seem daunting, teaching abroad is almost always a very rewarding experience. While every job is different, many positions at private academies only require you to work part time, leading to a very stress free lifestyle. Another benefit to working in a country where demand for English is high is that most students are very eager to learn, making the teaching experience that much more enjoyable. In fact, your students will likely serve as invaluable resources in helping you adjust to a new language, an unfamiliar city and a different culture.

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Herpetologic Refuge of Costa Rica

Written by Mireille

Good news for reptiles, snakes, and all types of mammals and birds that have been abandoned or abused; the new Refugio Herpetologico, in Santa Ana, is perhaps the best zoo of its kind in the country; strictly speaking, this is not a zoo, it is a shelter for animals in danger of extinction, a rehabilitation center for those that were once captured and later on abandoned by irresponsible owners who could not look after them, or simply animals that were abused or, like in some cases, almost killed. The shelter is doing a marvelous job there and the team of guides, vets and keepers are the most knowledgeable, kind hearted and professionals you can get. Rodolfo Vargas is the Biologist who rescues and, rehabilitates the animals. His aim is to sets them free again, as they are brought to him severely damaged emotionally, psychologically and physically.

You will find the refuge on the Old Road between Escazu and Sta Ana, in Alto de Las Palomas. Upon entering, you are welcomed warmly by the staff. There are a couple of people who do speak English there; it is both important and very moving to know the stories of these animals.

The tour starts with the snakes. Rodolfo took us along the little path as we started with the non venomous snakes, including a false coral snake that mimics a real one to scare off its enemies. Next come the venomous snakes, including the fierce Fer de Lance; one of the very few snakes that does not hides away from us, this nasty piece of work will attack you if you happen to cross its path…The venom is very powerful and fast action is required if bitten. There are rattle snakes, tiger snakes, bushmasters, and various types of vipers, including bright green ones and yellow ones. Next comes the boa constrictors; people love to have these as pets, however more often than not they do not know how to look after them and the reptiles suffer physical harm as a result.

Sobek the Crocodile is a permanent resident. This huge animal would not be able to survive in the wild; because he got too close to cattle and people, his front legs were cut off. He was found, dying by a river. Sobek would not be able to hunt and would die if released.

Cesar is an Iguana that was rescued from the Central Market; the capture and selling of this reptile is absolutely illegal in this country. Cesar is missing half his tail, nobody knows for sure what happened to him.

What grabbed my heart though was the lovely spider monkey, whose name I have now forgotten. This lovely female, a master of agility, spent 8 years of her life confined in a small bird cage. This magnificent artist could not move, or climb, or run, she barely fit in the cage….For 8 long years. Now she has a lot of space to play, however when she is given some food, she immediately resume her fetus position, as if this was the only way she knew how to eat…It breaks your heart.

Nearby is a little squirrel monkey who is obviously quite scared of humans; nobody knows what happened to her either, Rodolfo explained that she suffered from a type of amnesia; some days she does not remember who she is and is in a happy go lucky mood, however the next day, she is a wild animal again, and is quite fierce and angry! They would like her to mate with a male they have there, however she would need to meet him only when she is in one of her “Good Moods”!

The Titi Monkeys are always popular and so lovable;  these were pets and given to the refuge when the owners could not look after them any longer. Next to them is another horrific sight; Two beautiful Macaws, with most of their feathers missing, including the flying feathers of their wings. These two Macaws, found separately, suffered inhuman amount of stress and abuse. One of them in particular is in a shocking state; this, however, is self inflicted, as the poor birds plucked out their own feathers, out of sheer stress and misery! Truly horrific.

You will also meet a few turtles that were once pets and given to the refuge when owners could not look after them for a variety of reasons. Rodolfo will be happy to tell you their stories and you can even hold them if you wish; watch out there, my granddaughter was suddenly sprayed by one of them, Rodolfo assured us that it was “only water”!…..

The rehabilitation center is one of a kind in this country and hopefully, they will manage to survive, like their friends. Brady Barr, famous herpetologist of National Geographic, was present for the inauguration and is said to be in awe and very pleased with the refuge. This little publicity was a well needed push for Rodolfo and his team.

Rodolfo has been rescuing and saving reptiles since he was 12 years old. He is also involved in private research project for the Ministry of Environment as well as for private companies, and gives lectures at the School of Veterinary Medicine in Heredia. Of all the injured animals he receives, he can only release 60 per cent of them back in the wild. The remaining 40% would not be able to survive on their own in the wild.

The center covers some of the expenses with the small fee ($4 for adults, $3 for kids under 12 and for seniors) charged to the visitors, however donations are always welcomed! The little shop at the entrance offers an array of interesting souvenirs, including T-shirts with Sobek the Croc on the front, and a series of mug, jewelry, wooden crafts and post cards. The center functions as an educational center a and school tours are planned for the future. For more information, check the website: refugioherpetologico.com.

The visit does not take long, between one hour and one and half hours, however, not only is it particularly interesting and educational. It is often sad however it has a happy ending; even if the rescued animals cannot get released in the wild, they are well cared for there and live a happy, healthy life. Whenever you visit, the fee you pay will help buy medicine and food these poor animals; after all, we are responsible for this!

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Lack of Coast Guards in Costa Rica Bring Tragic DeathsL

Written by Mireille

In spite of tragic accidents and criticism, most of the beaches of this country do not have Coast Guards. Contrary to common belief, the beaches of Costa Rica can be very dangerous. Sure, some more so than others, but nevertheless, there is no protection offered for swimmers. A research shows that one person drowns every 3.5 days in Costa Rica. Since 2008, 557 persons have drowned and that is unacceptable! Last year 76 people drowned, and this year, already 50 lost their lives.

A couple of weeks ago, three US teenagers drowned in Playa Bejuco, on the Central Pacific between Esterillos and Parrita.  Because they were US citizens, young and on a mission working in Churches and Orphanages, they tragedy did not go unnoticed, however, more often than not the victims are Costa Ricans.

The local residents of beach communities have appealed and asked for help, addressing the National Lifeguard Association (yes, there is one!) and the Red Cross, but to no avail. This is a serious case of mismanagement and total lack of care; some beaches here are treacherous and yet, extremely popular! Many attract tourism because they are perfect for surfing however, beaches like that are exceedingly dangerous if you are not on a board! The rip tide will sweep you away and you cannot get back on shore. If you are on a board, however, you just wait for the nest big wave to take you back.

The reason for this lack of support, it would seem, rests in the salaries; Coast Guards will risk their lives to save you, however well trained they may be, and they should be paid accordingly. There are apparently 600 registered life guards in Costa Rica, yet only 130 are actually on post. The Municipalities cannot afford to pay them, while the Costa Rican Tourism Board is not making any effort; as a result, people die. Volunteers do their best but this is more than insufficient.

Beach security, both in the sea and on the beach, has been an ongoing and growing problem as tourism is rapidly growing, yet the Tourist Board is looking the other way. This is yet another example of bad management and lack of knowledge. How can they expect to carry on attracting people on the beaches when this puts their lives in danger, without mentioning the ever rising crime, from stealing cars to robbing taking place on the beaches?

Tourism is the number one source of income in Costa Rica; most particularly, people come here for the wonderful beaches. Tourists should be treated with respect, care and everything should be made to make sure that they have a safe and pleasant trip, not a dangerous one. While they are warned of the rip tides, this is not enough. Please, give us Coast Guards!

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Earthquake in Costa Rica on Friday 13th!

Written by Mireille

I was just getting home last Friday, a big storm was exploding outside, and it seemed that the thunder was hitting the ground all around the house. I was looking forward to see my dogs. The first thing I always do is to open the glass doors at the back to let them in; something was wrong! I could not open the doors and the glass was rattling. The sounds became deafening! The doors seemed to be stuck and the whole house was shaking, still, I did not feel anything, I just heard, I thought it was thunder. When I finally opened the doors one of my dogs started to cry and run out in the garden instead of getting in. But that time, I was beginning to wander about the noise, the noise had been deafening!

It was only when I checked my computer a few minutes later that I realized that it had been an earthquake! My Facebook was full of various comments! The earth had shaken hard and I had not felt it!

The US Geological Survey announced a 6.2 quake in the region of Tilaran, near Arenal. Soon after that however the OVISCORI (Observatorio Vulcanologico y Sismologico de Costa Rica), which is the Costa Rica Geological Survey, announced that the magnitude of the quake had been 5.9 and that the epicenter had been in Santiago de Puriscal, 28 kms west of San Jose and nowhere near Tilaran.

The movements seemed to last for a long time, the noise for me, however Oviscorio registered a 5 seconds quake. There were no reports of any victims or serious damage; however there was a fair amount of reaction amongst the population. Indeed, it had been an unusual kind of quake!  If it had not been 70kms deep, it would have cause quite a lot of injury and loss.

Many earthquakes in Costa Rica are caused by a deformation on the Coco Plate. It was responsible of the earthquake tremor that shook the country 21 years ago.

The Coco plate sliding under the Caribbean plate is what causes deformation; when there are distortions, there is a tremor and the earth shakes; this is what happened last Friday, May 13th at 4,47pm. People felt that the earth shook twice, first mildly and the second time with much more force, the truth is that two waves reached the surface, the second one being much more powerful.

In case of an Earth Quake it is important to stay calm and to use common sense. Remember, the Earthquake does not hurt or kill anyone, falling objects do!

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